The Caucus region that lies between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea is a fascinating place. It’s considered ‘Euraisia’ as it sits in-between Europe and Asia. Georgia and Armenia are the two of the oldest Christian nations but don’t get as much tourism as their European counterparts. The currency exchange is roughly $1 = 3 Georgian Lari and $1 = 500 Armenian Dram.
The easiest way to get from the Tbilisi airport to the city is to catch a taxi for $20. All other rides within the city are no more than $1-$3 USD. Also, Tbilisi has a good metro and bus system.
To get from Tbilisi to Yerevan, we hired a driver. The trip was around $225 for 5 people including some sightseeing. Taxi was our main travel in Yerevan with most rides costing $1-$3 USD. Crossing the Georgia-Armenia border was fairly easy and visa-free for US citizens. It took us around 1.5 hours each way.
To get back to Georgia, we opted for a historic overnight Soviet-era train for $52 per person (for a 1st-class room). For the rest of our Caucus trip, we rented a car.
Tbilisi, Georgia
The capital city has a long history from being a major part of the Silk Road, to being the hub for the southern region of the USSR, and to being an independent state. We learned the history of the city through a free walking tour which was supposed to last 2-3 hours, but our guide (whose name was Gregory) was so passionate about his city and we were so eager to learn that we ended up taking 6 hours of his time to explore!
The city is home to gorgeous museums, buildings, and Georgian Orthodox churches.
To get a true taste of Georgian cuisine we went to two amazing restaurants. Pasanuri was our lunch stop where we tried Georgian khinkhali (similar to dumplings), beans in a pot, and khachapuri (bread and cheese). All three dishes were fantastic.
For dinner, we went to an authentic Georgian restaurant called Tsikavili on the Mtkvari River. The entertainment started at 8 pm but we arrived late due to some poor planning on my part. We chose to get there by bus instead of taxi. The bus showed up about 15 minutes late, but we still would have made it on time if Google Maps didn’t have us walk down a closed street that was under construction in the middle of the night. We got lost and asked a group of people inside one of the neighborhoods for directions. After struggling to explain to us how to get to the restaurant, the guy gave up and offered us a ride, refusing to accept money. His name was Sergei, which is our uncle’s and nephew’s name as well. Definitely, a godsend! This was our first of many tastes of Georgian hospitality and kindness. This adventure made our night at Tsikavili that much more special.
The following day, we stopped by a local winery called Divino for a taste of local Georgian wine. The wine was good but learning from our host about the history of toasting in Georgia and the toast master (or “Tamada”) was even better. The tamada is a hired person who makes toasts at special occasions. And of course, one toast is not good enough but there must be 3, 7, or 12 toasts to be exact!
Finally, we negotiated a discounted rate for the 5 of us to cruise down the Mtkivari River with a wine glass included. As we listened to “Adventures of a Lifetime” blaring into the sunset, it was sweet bliss.
Yerevan, Armenia
The journey from the capital of Georgia to the capital of Armenia was a full-day experience of windy mountain roads, border crossings, and sightseeing as we visited the Haghpat Monastery and Sanahin Monastery up in the mountains. These were some of the first Christian churches that survived a lot of turmoil over the centuries.
Yervan was designed as a radial city with a curving river around its border. Exploring the city was easy, as it is very walkable and well laid out. In the old town, we wondered over to the Republic Square where we enjoyed a world class fountain show, surrounded by the governmental house for Armenia and the history museum; along with a few top class hotels creating an amazing focal point of the city.
On the other side of the old town was the Cafesjian Center for the Arts, which offered a range of both Armenian and European art for free (well worth a donation though). The museum was way different than any others that come to mind. Firstly, the building was based on a n Armenian architects design from the early 20th century. The building was finally under construction in 1971 before being put on hold and only again being restarted in 2002 and being completed in 2009. The final structure cascades down a hill roughly at a 45-degree angle with each exhibition occupying a different floor. Each floor also offers a terrace with a beautiful view of the city.
We could not leave Armenia without learning about the Armenian Genocide. Yerevan has a memorial and a museum dedicated to remembering the atrocities committed by the Turks. A crime that took place in the 20th century so devastating; that Armenia is still trying to heal from it. Mount Ararat (the biblical landing spot of Noah’s Arc after the flood) looms in the distance across the border, serving as yet another reminder of the land that was once theirs.
Lake Sevan, Armenia
Since Armenia is a landlocked country, Lake Sevan serves as a vital resource for the people. The lake was beautiful. Julia even had a chance to ride a Jet ski for the first time, twisting and turning around the lake.
Afterwards we found solace in the Sevanakvank Monastery that sits on a peninsula, peacefully surrounded by the calm blue waters.
Batumi, Georgia
After we left Armenia, we headed to Batumi, Georgia. We awoke to the sunrise peaking over the mountains as we approached Batumi by train. If Las Vegas and Miami had a baby, it would be Batumi. Our time here was short but we had a great time walking the streets, boardwalks, and stone beaches.
The city has a variety of architecture both new and old that pushes the boundaries of style. From the coolest McDonald’s to the futuristic IT university turned hotel with a Ferris Wheel sticking out of the building almost 1000 feet high. The sunset on the Black Sea was amazing!
Borjomi, Georgia
Borjomi sits in the middle of Georgia. The drive from Batumi to Borjomi was a scenic tapestry of landscapes changing from the tropical trees to more dense timber forests. The city is home to world-famous spring water that we made sure to sample aplenty! We wondered around the many shops and restaurants along the streets of this charming small town.
We visited the Borjomi National park which has sulfuric baths which were built for the Romanov’s royal family, but are now open to the public.
On our drive to the next town Ananuri, we made a stop at Gori - the birthplace of Josef Stalin, with an impressive castle in the middle of the town. But even more impressive, is the Uplistsike Cave town, just a little further of the highway. It’s home to the ancient people of Georgia dating back to 1000 BC during the iron age.
The once blossoming town cut out of rock gives a glimpse into the life people once lived. Just walking the site and seeing the history literally set in stone gave us some perspective on time.
Ananuri/Mtskheta, Georgia
Ananuri sits on the Zhinvali man-made lake in the northern part of the country. Up on the cliffs overlooking the lake is the Ananuri Fortress Complex (free of charge) which remained fairly intact from the 13th century.
The town of Mtskheta sits at the meeting points of the two rivers. The city is home to the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral where we had the chance to witness a traditional Georgian wedding. The church sits in the center of the small town surrounded by gardens, shops and restaurants on the old streets. Looming overhead in the backdrop is the Jvari Monastary where we headed next to find more bride and grooms (at least 4) all getting their photo shoots done.
Gmadlobt Georgia and shnorhakalut’yun Armenia for opening our eyes to a region we knew little about.
Well worth the visit to a less touristy place that has a lot to offer!
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